Peachy Picks Tiella
The new generation of Italian in Manhattan has arrived.
And its name is Tiella.
Do not miss it when you are on first avenue near the Mover and Shaker Ed Koch bridge!
You know Mayor Koch is a Mover and Shaker:
Tiella was first featured in Terrific Takeout:
Peachy has been dreaming of that Branzino ever since. So, it graduated to Tasty Tidbits:
It easily advances to Peachy's Picks, and the esteemed dining panel believes this is one of the hottest newcomers on the Manhattan dining scene in the last year. Owner Mario is a total peach and is one of the most dedicated, informative and caring owners we have encountered. He is so educational as well as Peachy learned about more flours than she was aware existed! Tiella opened last July, and like Peachy herself in person, it packs a lot of punch in a small space. (Peachy is a towering 5'1".) Tiella has about 15 tables but we think they will have such success they'll have to move soon. Or just knock down a wall.
Peachy began the extravaganza with the Capesante: Oven-Roasted Sea Scallops wrapped in speck (a variety of prosciutto marinated and smoked with salt and pepper added from a northern region of Italy), over endive and sauteed with cognac. It was exquisite and tender and the perfect start to hit after hit.
Mario tells us that most of the ingredients come from Italy...however in the case of the pappardelle special with lobster and shrimp, pictured at the top, Peachy would like to argue with him. She thinks it came from heaven.
You know how often she speaks of seafood and hands down this is one of the best we've ever had. The quality of ingredients, the texture and the outstanding flavor make this an item we believe deserves a spot on the permanent menu, not on specials only.
Though we did not actually meet him, we are impressed with Executive Chef Giuseppe Castellano. Like Mario, he hails from Naples and they've known each other for 16 years. Peachy hopes she will know this Orata (well not this exact one of course)- Filet of Mediterranean dorado with a thin potato crust in thyme and lemon sauce- for 16 years at least. Simply delightful, it was every bit as fabulous as the Branzino she had in Takeout. At Mario's suggestion she ordered it though she would have been thrilled with the Branzino again.
The wine list was a total winner as well and you know our alcohol critiques are even more extensive in quantity in our Champagne Wishes column...Peachy Deegan sipped on a lovely Montepulciano D'Abruzzo Dama Marramiero during her meal. Peachy ordered the chocolate souffle cake-we know you are all shocked-and it was moist and delicious! Even better it had smashing melon sorbet on the side that was out of this world.
But don't just listen to only Peachy...our esteemed panelist raves:
"Tiella”, meaning “iron skillet” is a very authentic Italian restaurant with a focus on the way food is prepared in Naples. The owner said 80% of their ingredients actually come from Italy. For example, they have at least eight flours (chickpea, wheat, chestnut, etc) that they use in the menu all of the flour is Italian. All of their pasta is handmade!
We began the dinning experience, not only with the best seat in the house (by the window), but with fresh bread and the finest olive oil. I enjoyed Vermentino "campo del once" 2009 with the entirety of my meal.
I started with “Le Insalte”. I would recommend “Rughetta”, bright arugula, pecorino cheese and apples slices, drizzled with tart balsamic dressing. The greens tasted out of an organic garden.
For the first course, I tried the “Risotto di mare” abounded with flavor; a flawless combination of ingredients, including seafood, onions and tomatoes. The “al dente” rice billed as “crisp” on the menu certainly delivered, with each grain bursting with flavor. The mussels and calamari were sautéed to perfection, many times mussels are too undercooked for my taste; these were superlative.
For the second course, I tried the “Branzino aqua pazza”. The dish was filling but not heavy. Per the menu: “Whole Mediterranean branzino roasted in spring water, cherry tomatoes, parsley, and garlic”. The fish was full bodied and tasted as if it was only cooked in spring water, not much oil or salt. Very refreshing; I could taste the fish and the cherry tomatoes gave pops of flavor. I also must rave about the brussel sprouts. They are also boiled in water without salt, just some olive oil and then lightly roasted. Simply the most delicious brussel sprouts I have ever tasted.
For dessert, the ricotta cake was the perfect way to finish the meal. It is prepared with roman sheep ricotta cheese.
All of the dishes on the menu were very innovative; I look forward to going back again!
Peachy Picks Tiella!!!!!
