FASHION EXCLUSIVE TO WHOM YOU KNOW: MOVER AND SHAKER AMY SMILOVIC CHATS WITH PEACHY DEEGAN AFTER THE TIBI FALL 2011 COLLECTION!
We loved Tibi when we were one month old, and we have been to the last consecutive five Tibi shows at Whom You Know. They are our absolute favorite! Tibi boasts two Movers and Shakers: Designer Amy Smilovic and head of PR Liz Walker. Every season we look forward to seeing what they will come out with next. Tibi’s Fall 2011 Collection was inspired by the “sleek and modern simplicity of the 90’s decade” and gave viewers an updated, elegant version of that era.
The Beginning of the Show:
The End of the Show:
There were several looks displayed; the first part of the show featured mostly neutrals with splashes of pink which we love. Sophisticated, classic, and classy, but with a modern edge, these daywear looks are un-fussy and quite attractive. Also featured was a glitzier, more glamorous array of nighttime wear, including a number of pieces with a beautiful combination of navy and a shiny gold. We particularly liked the tuxedo looks and we were also fans of the Damask Gold Jacquard Dress with Silk Chiffon Combo in Navy! The effortlessly elegant Sigfried Beaded Deep V Mid Calf Dress in Black Silk Crepe was a clearcut winner as well. This gorgeous dress was absolutely stunning in its simplicity. Sleek and understated, with just a hint of sparkle from the beading, I’d love to have this dress in my own closet! Several of the later pieces in the show featured Rococo prints in a vibrant red, which I also found very attractive. Bold and regal, yet feminine, these pieces are eye-catching stunners. Overall, a totally fabulous collection from Tibi designer Amy Smilovic!
Peachy Deegan interviewed Amy Smilovic for Whom You Know.
Peachy Deegan: The tuxedo influence was so cool. Is this the first time you've done that and will you continue to do that in the future?
Amy Smilovic: Our last Fall collection was in part inspired by menswear, or more accurately the mix of menswear with more feminine silhouettes that Tibi has always been synonymous with. I think that’s something we’ve continued in this collection, with the tuxedo jackets, suiting-inspired jumpsuits & luxurious pants. The white jacket with black leather lapel is really one of my favorite pieces-it’s a little unexpected.
What were the most challenging aspects of this collection?
I always have trouble limiting and narrowing my inspiration, so that what we end up with still covers our complete customer base, and also looks focused. From a more technical point of view-we’ve had to work really hard to keep price points in a range that works for our customers, while constantly upping the quality & bringing in new & unique fabrications. Leather, for example, is one that we’ve more recently introduced, and really adds some amazing dimension to our outwear especially.
We loved the colors and color is always a big part of Tibi. What inspired the colors you chose for this Fall 2011 collection?
I always start first with a color palette – this seasons was inspired by photographs from Stephen Shore’s Uncommon Places. I loved that the places were all familiar – a living room – a street scene – but there was always something completely unexpected in the photograph. And the colors – muted, but very much at one level. Mixes of burnt browns, greys, blues, mustards and greens that all play at the same pitch.
What literal influences of the 90's impacted your style choices the most?
Minimalism is something we embraced this season, and it was a very obvious call out to the 90’s. I wanted to show designer pieces with details that were only easily identified to the wearer, not screaming out loud. We worked on making to absolute best version of closet basics-pants, blouses, coats etc.
The pink winter hats had a great color but we are not crazy about the style, and we've seen this style in other shows this season. In your opinion how can an everyday person wear something warm and still be stylish?
Faux fur is one thing that we’re seeing more and more realistic looking versions of-in short cocktail coats, long hooded styles, you name it. It also can be found at such a variety of price points. It’s certainly something we work with and really love the extra excitement it adds to coats.
We loved the lines of the trench coats. How are you always so successful in getting a flattering cut?
Working with lovely fabrics like twill, mohair, felted wool make it somewhat easier, and there’s certainly an aspect of trial & error. We might work with our NY sample room on two or three versions or fittings of a coat until it’s just right and is sent to China for final production.
Where did you get your print inspiration from this season?
This season the prints are twists on traditional floral scenes, watermarks, scarf prints – all with details and unexpected elements. We have a print designer on staff who is constantly sketching & editing our prints, adding in little details, like our red “Rococo” print with hidden bumblebees & owls, within the print. Those touches add such a special element of surprise and fun.
One model had a problem with her shoe and Murphy's Law is inevitable in life. How do you think she handled the mistake?
We’ve been quite a few seasons without any mishaps, and I’d say we’re still lucky to have only this little issue. I think she handled it beautifully, and ironically the way any “Tibi girl” would. She choose to take her time, take off her shoes and just be comfortable, rather than teeter along with one shoe, we were cheering for her so loud when she made it backstage!
Will you ever make shoes?
We do produce shoes! The spring line will be sold on our website & in stores starting in March, so keep your eyes out.
Do you think the economy has picked up in fashion and if so how did that impact your design choices?
I do think we’re bouncing back a bit-it’s allowed us to explore higher price points, with more detailed construction and the like. It’s also afforded us the opportunity to expand and launch e-commerce on our website, which is such an exciting venture. As far as design choices-I think those have much less to do with the economy and more with what’s in my head, my inspiration and what my design team & I feel is going to be fresh for the season. The economy manifests more in sales, production quantities and extras for us like advertising; but overall we’ve been lucky to make it through the down-time with nothing but exciting plans for the future.
Have you seen other shows this season and if so what did you think of them?
I always spend time on Style.com, I’m always to see what my colleagues are doing. So far I’ve loved The Row, Theyskens Theory & Proenza. It’s so hard to tell though, we’re just at the beginning, London is just starting and after that we’ll still have Paris & Milan to look forward to.
Do you have a favorite piece from Fall 2011 and if so what is it and why?
I’m having a coats moment-especially since it’s still so cold in New York. I also just love the formal tuxedo jumpsuit with racerback. It’s simple, easy and looks really elegant but in a cool downtown girl way. I can’t wait to wear it to an event with flats.
What should we look forward to in Spring 2012?
It’s so hard to say now-I’m traveling for inspiration over the next couple weeks but it will certainly include all of our core aesthetic – clean details, rich prints, always a masculine meets feminine moment, and details without being frilly or overly girly in any way.
