Peachy's Picks Connecticut: Le Petit Cafe in Branford
If you think the fine dining is simply divine in Manhattan, you ought to go to Branford, Connecticut. For ages we have been given suggestions of restaurants to review outside of Manhattan. We won't do the other boroughs of New York City. We absolutely won't do New Jersey. Maybe one day we'll do other parts of New York State or possibly Florida, or Europe, but we know Connecticut is better than them all. This is our FIRST Connecticut dining review and we thought we'd start at the top because it is excellence we write about.
You'll remember last year we reviewed L'Ecole of the French Culinary institute; Executive Chef and owner Roy Ip and his wife are esteemed graduates of this prestigious institution, and they decided that their restaurant would open on the beautiful Connecticut shoreline after they graduated and the rest is history. They are so smart. Obviously, the quality of any educational institution is reflected best in the work its graduates produce after leaving (Mover and Shaker Mr. McQuilkin we hope this review makes you proud and you ought to leave Simsbury one night and take your wife here), and we cannot think of a better example of a French Culinary grad than Roy Ip...And one of the same panelists from that review returned to this review with Peachy and the continuity of amazing French food is even better at Le Petit Cafe! This week's menu:
http://www.lepetitcafe.net/lpc/This_Weeks_Menu.html
A lot of people in Manhattan believe Connecticut is Fairfield county only and overlook the rest of the state; well Peachy Deegan spent the first 18 years of her life (except for a couple of internships-one being at CBS News on West 57th street) in Hartford County, and we kick this column off with New Haven County, because last time we checked, there is not a beach in Farmington and it is August. The State of Connecticut offers so much more than only Fairfield County and we are going to tell you all about it periodically when Peachy leaves Manhattan, and we are thrilled to kick off this column with Le Petit Cafe. Zagat said they are #1 in the state and we were thrilled to begin with first on their list.
You'll remember last year we reviewed L'Ecole of the French Culinary institute; Executive Chef and owner Roy Ip and his wife are esteemed graduates of this prestigious institution, and they decided that their restaurant would open on the beautiful Connecticut shoreline after they graduated and the rest is history. They are so smart. Obviously, the quality of any educational institution is reflected best in the work its graduates produce after leaving (Mover and Shaker Mr. McQuilkin we hope this review makes you proud and you ought to leave Simsbury one night and take your wife here), and we cannot think of a better example of a French Culinary grad than Roy Ip...And one of the same panelists from that review returned to this review with Peachy and the continuity of amazing French food is even better at Le Petit Cafe! This week's menu:
http://www.lepetitcafe.net/lpc/This_Weeks_Menu.html
A lot of people in Manhattan believe Connecticut is Fairfield county only and overlook the rest of the state; well Peachy Deegan spent the first 18 years of her life (except for a couple of internships-one being at CBS News on West 57th street) in Hartford County, and we kick this column off with New Haven County, because last time we checked, there is not a beach in Farmington and it is August. The State of Connecticut offers so much more than only Fairfield County and we are going to tell you all about it periodically when Peachy leaves Manhattan, and we are thrilled to kick off this column with Le Petit Cafe. Zagat said they are #1 in the state and we were thrilled to begin with first on their list.
Le Petit Cafe was first featured in Tasty Tidbits:
And, it has easily advanced to Peachy's Picks Connecticut.
Here are the directions, because you should go this weekend: http://www.lepetitcafe.net/lpc/Directions.html
Set your alarm clock to make a reservation, or you can just rely on the rooster:
This unassuming rooster will greet you in the front room and does keep quiet during the meal. There is an overall civility in this crowd that you will love. Everything at Le Petit Cafe is quaint and charming which reflects the overall quality of Branford itself, the State of Connecticut, and the best parts of New England. You cannot get this in New York. The atmosphere is stellar as well and we heard La Vie en Rose (which you know we love from the site of La Mediterranee) when we walked in. When you are sitting in the front of Le Petit Cafe, you look out onto the town green:
The green light means you can start eating.
You know Peachy Deegan is an advocate of rose in the summer, so she began with a Rose from Provence which was sensuously sweet but not overly so. Paired with organic baked bread to begin with, we knew we were in for a treat, especially when we tasted the truffle butter which Peachy just wanted to take back to New York because there is no truffle butter like this in Manhattan. Chef Roy tells us only 20% of his diners are locals, so put your top down on your convertible and escape the city and join the 80% of those in the know about how FABULOUS Le Petit Cafe is. And it is a nice drive too. Take the Merritt not I-95.
You know Peachy Deegan is an advocate of rose in the summer, so she began with a Rose from Provence which was sensuously sweet but not overly so. Paired with organic baked bread to begin with, we knew we were in for a treat, especially when we tasted the truffle butter which Peachy just wanted to take back to New York because there is no truffle butter like this in Manhattan. Chef Roy tells us only 20% of his diners are locals, so put your top down on your convertible and escape the city and join the 80% of those in the know about how FABULOUS Le Petit Cafe is. And it is a nice drive too. Take the Merritt not I-95.
The wine menu is exemplary; we believe Roy told us his wife takes care of that. Everyone knows women typically have better palates than men do and if you know the story of Star Vodka, it was tested on women only during its development. For our newly found Connecticut readers, you should know that Star Vodka is the main component in The Peachy Deegan cocktail which has not yet made its way to Connecticut but we believe someday it will.
A staple of the menu which you should all order if you like seafood are the jumbo shrimps served with sesame soba noodles, toasted sesame seeds and spicy sesame vinaigrette. You know Peachy wanted the dressing on the side and they were happy to comply. It is the perfect August starter and the slices of shrimp were cut to the perfect density ready to melt in your mouth. Though Peachy is a seafood lover, she is not one to order anything with sesame normally. If you are this way also, let us assure you: this is a Sesame Street you want to live on and devour. This dish was so fresh, the noodles were scrumptious and you know Peachy usually feels that word is ridiculous, but that is how wonderful this starter was.
John, our server, was delightful to meet and he was totally on it all night.
Baby organic greens met us next with a lovely dijon mustard vinaigrette.
Peachy shared her goat cheese with her panelist.
Baby organic greens met us next with a lovely dijon mustard vinaigrette.
Peachy shared her goat cheese with her panelist.
We were just getting warmed up. Simply to die for, or more accurately, simply the reason to drive to Branford for, is the combination of the knockout Bordeaux and Angus New York Steak au Poivre. The steak is Texas aged, served Le Petit Cafe style with watercress salad, French Fries (or Connecticut Fries, Peachy likes to call them) and brandy-black peppercorn sauce. Seared to perfection, this beats the steaks of many New York steak houses we have tried. Peachy ordered it medium, and it arrived medium. Actually, it arrived perfect.
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!
Let's get closer!
Let's get closer!
We know you want to go; we know you want to go!
Peachy suggests you get someone to come with you that will drive (this is never a problem in Manhattan because you know we all live on top of each other in the land of taxis and subways), because you will fall in love with the Bordeaux and you will want to have more than one glass. Peachy loved it so much that look-she forgot to take a picture when it first arrived so you will have to imagine how much better it looks when it is full.
Peachy suggests you get someone to come with you that will drive (this is never a problem in Manhattan because you know we all live on top of each other in the land of taxis and subways), because you will fall in love with the Bordeaux and you will want to have more than one glass. Peachy loved it so much that look-she forgot to take a picture when it first arrived so you will have to imagine how much better it looks when it is full.
Right down to the flourless chocolate cake served with warm raspberry sauce and creme chantilly, every moment of Le Petit Cafe was a dream and Peachy and her panelist were counting their lucky stars that it was French that they studied at Miss Porter's! And too bad their teachers from back then could not join them this night because they simply would have LOVED it too.
Our esteemed panelist adds:
Whether you are on a weekend getaway from NYC or you live in Branford, a visit to Le Petit Café is a chance to relax and truly take time to enjoy good food and savor delicious flavors. With a tin pressed ceiling, lace curtains framing a window overlooking a picturesque church steeple on the town green, and soft French chansons playing in the background, I felt transported to a different place and atmosphere just by entering the restaurant. On Friday and Saturday night there are set seating times, each which give plenty of time to enjoy your 4 course meal. There is no time pressure to finish because someone else is waiting for your table; a meal at LPC is leisurely as fine dining should be. When we arrived our table was ready with pickled beets, deliciously sweet and tangy, provençal olives, and a divine black truffle butter to spread upon the most amazing organic bread, baked at Le Petit Café and served warm from the oven!
On a hot summer day I started with lighter fare, a wonderful gazpacho soup. The smooth liquid had just the right balance of spices, and a fresh avocado in the center of the bowl, topped with diced tomatoes, provided a perfect balance of textures. Of note the soup was available with shrimp but the kitchen here was accommodating and able to prepare it for me without it. The next course was a salad with just the right amount of a Dijon
The presentation was beautiful, and the meat was tender, juicy and flavorful. The lamb was well balanced by sugar snap peas and what I think is the best gratinee I have had: parsnip and apples that were sliced so thinly and perfectly prepared. The desserts all sounded wonderful, but I found it refreshing to have the option of a lighter dessert.
The poached pear with prunes, which I chose to have chilled, was served in a spiced burgundy wine sauce, and I definitely recommend this to those looking for a simpler, lighter dessert. The experience at Le Petit Café is special because of the staff, many of whom have been working there for years. Our waiter John was extremely helpful and knowledgeable and chose a glass of Bordeaux
Peachy Picks Le Petit Cafe in Branford, Connecticut!
We give Le Petit Cafe our Highest Recommendation.
