Peachy Picks Maialino Our Coverage Sponsored by Liz Barbatelli's The Laundry at Linens Limited and E. Braun & Co. in Beverly Hills
Executive Chef Nick Anderer
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Another establishment called Maialino the Top Newcomer of 2011, however, we will call them the Here To Stay of 2012! And 2013, and 2014, and 2015...It is a rare occasion when you find a chef as talented and accomplished as Nick Anderer, as sincere and caring about his vocation as Nick Anderer, and as down-to-earth and just plain nice as Nick Anderer all rolled up into one walking, talking person. You can see he exudes real joy in what he does and that makes every bite taste that much better. He sets a standard that you can tell his staff wants to live up to. Every last detail of everything we encountered impressed us at Maialino and we only wonder what took us so long to get there. Though our dinner ended with a tour of the kitchen, we're going to show it to you first, because this is where it all begins. The kitchen at Maialino is everything you would dream it to be: a bastion of civilized cuisine and industrious talent combining to bring the best of each to your dinner plate.
This is a new modern classic and Maialino is here to stay.
Nick's devotion to the dominance of porcine cuisine in the Roman style is decidedly unique at the level presented and in nearly 130 dinner reviews now it is quite the extraordinary occasion when we experience something new at an Italian restaurant, which is probably the cuisine we dine on most often.
Maialino was first featured in Tasty Tidbits:
and we are pleased to announce it has rollercoasted with clearcut enthusiasm into Peachy's Picks.
Its extraordinary cuisine, top leadership, and dedication to service have earned it a spot among the very best we've ever been to. We will begin this review with the sentiment that we absolutely cannot wait to go back. Eloise will probably move to this hotel just to eat at Maialino or perhaps Nick can open a second one at The Plaza for her.
Like all civilized diners, we began with cocktails. This one belonged to Peachy's panelist (whom you will hear from next) while she began with a fantastic bubbly Brut Rose, Rainoldi (Lombardia) 2007. We don't always speak of bread baskets in dinner reviews, but we do when they are as outstanding as this:
The breadsticks were crisp, the focaccia was just right and the fresh white Italian bread was the epitome of what any bread basket should contain. We loved the olive oil as well:
Right from the start, Nick came out and greeted us and informed us of all that we should know about the menu. You are going to love the diagram of the pig in the bottom right, all sectioned off and labeled with Roman numerals...you'll know what part you are eating! The atmosphere is lovely: causal yet elegant. Royal blue gingham tableclothes are under the white ones and welcoming pink roses decorate the room with artichokes hanging from the wall. You know we love pink and green together and noticed this combination. The party began with the antipasti.
On the left you see Pate di Campagna: it contains suckling pig liver and belly.
So flavorful, just a small tasting is needed to ignite your appetite.
It insisted on a close-up.
On the right it is joined by Felino from San Francisco.
For her antipasti, Peachy opted for the Verdure Marinate: marinated artichokes which were so delicately sliced, fennel and mushrooms which were elegantly presented with the stem removed. We love the diagonally crossed arrangement and Peachy felt like she was eating a work of art.
Every ingredient here in this dish and every component we encountered throughout the entirety of the evening was top quality and fresh.
Nick is also well-versed in wine pairing and Peachy took all of his suggestions. She next tried the Carmema, Produttori di Carema (Piemonte) 2007 which was a full-bodied, smooth red which we found to be quite versatile. Of all of the wines she tried at Maialino, this was her favorite. Later, she tried the Cesanese di Olevano Romano, Silene, Damiano Ciolli (Lazio) 2008 which was a bit more rustic and rugged while still being full-bodied. Each of these two were incredibly robust and heightened the taste of each dish.
The primi selection was a tough choice to make because there were so many inviting choices. Peachy opted for the delectably delicious Cavatelli all'Orto: Broccoli Rabe, Garlic and Peppers accentuated by breadcrumbs on top which added a lovely texture to the dish. You can see the creativity coming through in such detailed care here.
As you may or may not know, rabbits are Peachy's favorite animal and normally we would not eat them as we just love them as an animal (though we eat nearly all other meat) but at the suggestion of the Chef we tried another Primi: Garganelli, which is braised rabbit, green olives and rosemary served in veal stock, tomato sauce and olive oil. In short, Peachy is thrilled she tried the rabbit and this is something that you should not be tentative about opting to order.
Above is Tim Nolt, a second server, carrying the piece de resistance: Maialino al Forno.
Ty Anderson and Tim Nolt were fantastic all evening and on the ball and professional.
Maialino al Forno, how do we love you? Let us count the ways. Piles of fresh roasted pig, roasted for four to five hours in the oven (which is al forno in Italian!) will surrender to your fork as you lightly tear each bite from the main piece. The juice will entice you, the smell will envelop you, the taste will bowl you over. No doubt this is the piece de resistance and it was a special of the night. If it is a special when you are there, order it. If you look at your pig diagram on the menu, it is every part of the pig except the two hind legs and the rear end of the pig (it is not that as the ham dries out and this dish is succulent and juicy). All pig comes from Four Story Hills Farm in Pennsylvania. The skin is fresh deep fried and the slowly roasted potatoes are the perfect companion. This dish is perfect for everyone except for maybe someone named Kermit...but he can come here without her. This was too good to only post one photo of; here is a shot slightly closer where the pig slightly more prominent:
Maialino must have read our other reviews as they knew we absolutely adore sauteed spinach served with olive oil and lemon!
Splendid and fresh, this added the necessary green for this Irish family!
Another side dish you should order is the Funghi Trifolati which is the Holy Trinity of Mushrooms. Maitokie (Hen of the Woods), Baby Crimini and Trumpet Royal will grace your plate dancing in white wine and anchovy. By now, Peachy tried some white wine in a glass: Frascati Superiore lived up to its name: certainly it was superior and as we turn into spring we're going to drink more white. The Frascati Superiore was Regillo, Pietra Porzia (Lazio) 2010.
Like all proper dinners, this supper of perfection ended with one of the four food groups which as you know is CHOCOLATE:
By then Peachy was so excited to befriend the flourless chocolate cake it seems as though she was unable to still the camera in her clearcut excitement. It was joined by buttercreme gelato which absolutely melted in your mouth and gave new meaning to a la mode. And you know with the leadup to dessert there was not one, but four served. The apple crostata with honey cinnamon gelato, the bomboloni and the salted caramel gelato were also fantastic but you know who likes loves chocolate...
Our esteemed panelist adds:
There are many great restaurants in New York City, but it is not very often that you find one that is so good that it actually transports you to another world. Maialino, located in the Gramercy Park Hotel, does exactly that. Each dish that Chef Nick Anderer has created is a true work of art. Every bite contains a symphony of flavors that is played out on the palate. And every taste leaves you longing for more. My evening at Maialino began with an Indian Summer cocktail, pictured at the beginning of this review. The drink was made with Plymouth Gin, Cocchi Americano, lemon, and anisette. The ingredients were mixed together perfectly, creating a cocktail that was smooth, yet slightly sour. This drink was a great way to ready my appetite for the meal that was to come.
For an antipasti, I chose to try out the Polpo ai Ferri, or seared octopus with celery root and parsley. This had to be one of the best octopus dishes I've tasted. The meat was slightly charred on the outside giving it a crisp outer texture that contrasted perfectly with the tender, juicy inside. Along with this starter, we were treated to the Felino salami and the Pate di Campagna. The salami was extremely flavorful, soft, and almost juicy. The pate, made from suckling pig liver and belly, was truly mouth-watering. It was salty, creamy, and I didn't want to stop eating it! For the Primi course, I ordered the Lumaconi alla Norcia.
The lumaconi pasta are shell-shaped. Inside this al dente pasta was tender sausage that literally melted in my mouth. It had a slightly spicy flavor that was complemented so well by a brandy cream sauce. It was difficult to decide whether I preferred that dish or the other pasta dish we were treated to, the Garganelli. The garganelli was served with succulent braised rabbit, green olives, and rosemary, and a sauce made from veal stock, tomatoes, and olive oil. The rosemary and olives provided an irresistible flavor to this fantastic dish. Now, on to the Secondi!
For this course, I decided to try the Scottadita - which literarily translates to "burnt finger." Moments after the plate was set down in front of me, I knew why! These lamb chops were so good, I would have burnt my finger holding them, just so I wouldn't have to wait to eat them! Thankfully, I had a fork and knife, so my fingers were spared!
The lamb chops are marinated in agrodolce, the Italian version of sweet and sour sauce. This sauce was heavenly, and the meat was so tender and juicy, it had almost a creamy texture in my mouth. Accompanied with fresh fingerling potatoes and fennel, this meal was an 11 out of 10! At this point, I didn't think our experience at Maialino could get any better, but that was before dessert! We had the opportunity to sample the Flour-less Chocolate Cake, the Apple Crostada with honey cinnamon gelato, the Bumbaloni (Italian doughnuts), and a trio of gelatos (Chocolate, Toasted Almond Espresso, and Salted Caramel) topped with a chocolate biscotti. Despite how full my stomach was at this point, I had no trouble sampling each of these desserts! I love chocolate, so the chocolate cake was really a treat. The chocolate flavor was rich and addictive. The apple crostada was sweet, fruity, and had a delightful crust. The Bumbaloni were light as air, and the warm apple cider dipping sauce was sweet, sour, and tangy. I wanted every last drop! Finally, the gelato was smooth and creamy - of the best that I have ever had. All the desserts were extremely good, and made for a perfect ending to a perfect meal! If you are in search of a first-rate restaurant with excellent food, terrific and friendly service, and a relaxed atmosphere, Maialino is the place to be!
Come comfortable, eat elegantly.
You'll absolutely love Maialino!
Whom You Know gives Maialino our highest recommendation.
