Peachy's Picks Connecticut: Assaggio in Branford Our Coverage Sponsored by The Giving Back Foundation
Owner and Executive Chef Ryan Durant and Server Ben Werth
They are cousins and are holding Grandma Lee's (Mema!) Crab Dish
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On February 14, 2002 a restaurant opened in the quaint town of Branford, Connecticut that is sure to capture not only everyone's heart but also their stomach. You know Peachy Deegan grew up in the great State of Connecticut and if she ever leaves Manhattan, that is one of the places she goes to, stately speaking! Once in awhile escaping Manhattan is a must, particularly in this heat wave so we can channel our inner Katharine Hepburn and take a dip in the sound at Branford Abbey! Our third restaurant ever to advance to Peachy's Picks Connecticut we are pleased to announce is Assaggio! It was first featured in Tasty Tidbits:
The genuine care and skill exuded by Owner and Executive Chef Ryan Durant, who is wise beyond his years, the fantastic cuisine and idyllic location make Assaggio a must on your next jaunt to Connecticut. Peachy Deegan began by sipping a glass of Ruffino Chianti Classico from Tuscany, which was a splendid choice through the duration of the evening.
After some lovely bread from Venice Bakery in Hamden (Suzy we hope you are reading!) it was time for some stellar starters, namely the Diver Scallop Seared Set Over a Bed of Wild Mushroom Risotto. This measures up with the best of the scallops we've had in Manhattan and as you can see it is gorgeously presented as well. Server Ben Werth could not have been more gracious at our arrival and prior to ordering, Owner and Executive Chef Ryan Durant welcomed us as well and discussed the full menu in detail. This high level of service you don't always get in Manhattan believe it or not, but you can typically count on it in Connecticut; afterall, we did name the manners column Etiquette from Connecticut. And yes, the bathroom was spotless and they even folded Peachy's napkin at the dinner table while she was away. This place is into details and we love it. Helper Robert Bylo was friendly and diligent as well.
In Connecticut, typically restaurants serve a green salad with an entree as part of your meal, which is of course an excellent idea. You don't need to order it on the side like you would in New York. Some gorgonzola and pecans added oomph to delightful crunch lettuce in a vinaigrette. The atmosphere of Assaggio has a delightful buzz and we saw many social groups out and about on our venture there. What we did not see at Assaggio were empty tables, at all. So, make reservations, silly! We'll have to tell our friend Matt that we forecast a fabulous dinner...
After a lot of menu perusal and indecisiveness which doesn't normally happen to Peachy, she opted for a classic seafood dish that is also reminiscent of the family of the Chef: Crab Sauce, Maryland Blue Crabs Slow Simmered with San Marzano Tomatoes set over Dececco Linguini Fini finished with Lump Crab Meat. This is the blue-ribbon dish they are holding at the top and every bite of this spicy delicacy was tops.
Just when you thought you couldn't eat another bite, along came Ryan with Scarpino:
S
groppino
is prosecco, lemon sorbet, and limoncello combined into a winning summer cocktail garnished with refreshing mint!
Joined by a terrific Tiramisu, the dessert was a super ending to a wonderful meal in Connecticut.
Our esteemed panelists add:
Assaggio has been well-known to the Branford, CT locals since it opened a decade ago. There is a lovely outdoor patio area, but for those trying to beat this heat wave I recommend one of the tables in the glass enclosed area at the front of the main dining room. What I noticed right away at Assaggio was that every staff member seemed genuinely happy and dedicated. We learned that there were many regular customers among the full house dining on a Saturday night. Ryan told us how during hurricane Irene the restaurant was lucky to have power and was able to welcome those who had lost power and suffered from flooding in their homes during the storm.
Any Italian meal must include delicious bread, and the warm loaf from the Venice Bakery in Hamden was so good: soft on the inside, with a crisp crust, and perfect when dipped in the vibrant olive oil! For me the most memorable part of the meal was my appetizer, the House Made Gnocchi braised in Duck Confit Ragout. The amazing gnocchi were the perfect texture and served in a rich sauce with tender shreds of duck. I could happily have had this for my main course, and it is also of favorite of manager and chef Ryan, who told me I had chosen one of the “hidden gems” on the menu. To clear our palates for the main course, Assaggio includes with the entrees a lovely salad with a light lemony vinaigrette, pecans and gorgonzola cheese. I decided to try one of the specials for my main course, a New York strip steak served with a creamy peppercorn sauce. Steak “au poivre” is always one of my favorites so I was pleased to partake.
The Portobello mushrooms topping the streak were quite flavorful and the steak prepared as requested. The sautéed vegetables and mashed potatoes on the side rounded out the dish nicely. Along with my food I had a glass of the Riesling which was crisp with notes of honey and perfect for a summer meal. Of note, the kitchen seems willing to accommodate requests to prepare the dishes to the customer’s preference.
I also learned of a new summer drink I hope to replicate, a
S
groppino
. This is a refreshing cocktail with Prosecco and lemon sorbet, pleasing to the tongue and the eye alike. We sampled a few desserts, including a white chocolate crème brulee, a tiramisu with rich mocha flavor, and a homemade NY style cheesecake.
I would recommend them all depending on what your sweet fix is. I was lucky to get to taste them all but think my favorite was the crème brulee. Assaggio offers fine dining in a casual, relaxed atmosphere. Reservations are probably a good idea as every table was full on a Saturday night.
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I fully enjoyed my dinner at Assaggio in Branford, Ct. The food was as delicious as the owner, Ryan, and his cousin, Ben, our server, were gracious and welcoming. I started with a summer special, a tuna cocktail, served in a martini glass.
The surprise ingredient was the addition of some lobster meat which is always special! For my main course, I once again chose tuna, which was sushi grade ahi tuna cooked (or to my taste hardly cooked) to perfection. It was wonderful.
We also had a lovely salad in between. I drank prosecco along with my tuna but for dessert had a surprise drink consisting of limoncello and champagne--very refreshing, to go along with my white chocolate creme brulee. All in all, a delightful experience which I heartily recommend.
Peachy Picks Assaggio!
Assaggio is Highly Recommended by Whom You Know.
