Peachy Picks The Bull and Bear Steakhouse of The Waldorf=Astoria Our Coverage Sponsored by Fresh Origins
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The Bull and Bear of the Waldorf=Astoria is certainly a highlight of this quintessential New York Landmark, and you know we love LANDMARKS (Peacock Alley has previously earned our highest recommendation). Now The Bull and Bear has proven that it is much more than merely a tribute to the history of our great city and its main enterprise: finance, which inspired Peachy to have our panel of two including her bring decades of experience of Wall Street to this review. The Bull and Bear is indeed a bastion of old-world charm coupled with world-class service which is absolutely impeccable and naturally it exudes understated class at every turn, but unlike other legendary hot spots that have proven the test of time, it is not content to only meet expectations and rest upon the laurels of its reputation: it clearly exceeds all standards previously set and upheld over past years and steps up to the plate to compete in the most competitive culinary environment in the world, and triumph over all the trendy places that are here today and gone tomorrow with lesser edible entries.
The Bull and Bear is a spot you will fall in love with whether you are a local and need to be reminded or a tourist that traveled from near or far to the land of pristine surf and turf to be delicately devoured with a pinky up. It is clearly one of our best dining experiences ever, so go ahead and read but we advise you to dial up and make your reservation this minute.
If you are entering from the hotel, go towards this sign and down to the left. While in the hotel, do not miss their gorgeous display of history. We suggest you wait in the bar area if you are excited and early like someone we know, where you will be enlightened by a gorgeous chandelier, previously featured in our chandelier column.
As soon as you are seated you'll be in awe of the cocktail menu that offers new innovative choices like this glorious fig concoction ordered by our esteemed panelist:
as well as old-world classics like a Manhattan. Since Peachy was the age shown in our list of the first 150 restaurants recommended, she has been consuming the cherries from the Manhattans of her grandparents. She is glad she is old enough to have the cocktail part as well now as it doesn't get any better than this at The Bull and Bear, and Peachy opted to have hers with Rye:
General Manager George Pappas was a total delight and graciously greeted us promptly and took our coats as we were seated. Jessica Fusco, Food and Beverage Manager, Taner Ali, and Julio Alas rounded out the team that provided the apex of impeccable service which should be the envy of all Manhattan restaurants. Every last detail was attended to without either of us in the review ever needing to ask for a thing. Their proper taste, intelligent suggestions and anticipation of perfection should make their brand extremely proud. We did not see David Garceleon on this review but did meet him previously at Peacock Alley; as you know he is Director of Culinary. The Bull and Bear was first featured in Tasty Tidbits:
and it has incontestably advanced to be a cream of the crop entry in Peachy's Picks.
Among the best crabcakes we've ever had was the Maine Peekytoe Crab Cake which was beautifully presented and the best crabcake of recent memory. The density of crab was brilliant and the flavor earned them a standing ovation.
The epitome of delectable, this Maine Peekytoe danced in an inviting lemon fine herbs aioli which was the perfect compliment to the freshest crab we've had, and as we stretch further away from the summer months in Manhattan we love to be reminded of such flavors of better weather.
Equally triumphant were the Oysters Waldorf, which are an essential to your Bull and Bear experience. This may be a steakhouse, however their seafood aspects should be equally celebrated as these were just brilliant. We shared four large oysters gratineed with spinach and bacon which culminated in a divine sensory experience leaving us wondering why all oysters are not lucky enough to be Oysters Waldorf.
Even the biscuits and butter were presented flawlessly which is an example of how everything is pristine and perfect at The Bull and Bear. Since we are aficionados of acute attention to detail, we reveled in every last one we captured with our shutter.
Here's Jessica Fusco, who suggested the perfect white for our upcoming course.
Sweet baby clams next graced our palate in supreme ecstasy of garlic olive oil, red pepper, tuna tartare and fennel, which only added to our opinion of the seafood caliber at The Bull and Bear. And, if you think a spot like this is too traditional for you consider the creativity and innovation behind this:
Life is full of difficult decisions, but deciding what to eat at The Bull and Bear as your main entree shouldn't be one of them. As one who likes to have her cake and eat it too, Peachy Deegan heard the Surf & Turf calling her name (listen closely to the menu when you arrive! you'll hear yours called as well...) and she listened and ordered. Petit Filet Mignon grilled medium to perfection-and as they are detail fanatics like us you know it is medium since that is what the blade of your knife will say-and Half a Maine Lobster, which Peachy left in the shell for the first picture:
and here it is outside the shell:
Both the melted butter and bernaise sauce were divinely decadent, highlighting the flavor of each component. When Peachy wakes up in heaven, she would like to eat this. The quality exuded in every bite has now set a new standard for everywhere else we visit and has been emblazoned in Peachy's tastebuds. Also phenomenal was the Dover Sole Meuniere with lemon brown butter, ordered by our panelist. All freshness standards soared again and the dinner was enhanced further by crisp asparagus stalks and Bull and Bear French Fries with Truffle and Parmesean, which were every bite as delectable as they sound.
During dinner, Peachy sipped a rich Chianti suggested by Jessica that was robust and delicious:
You know we always leave room for dessert, and Peachy Deegan decided to pay tribute to her Irish heritage by ordering B&B Bread Pudding, which boasts moistness and succulent sweet flavors that will arouse your sweet tooth. Vanilla custard and golden raisins in tandem with Cognac Anglaise sauce and Maple Sugar Ice Cream is the perfect finale for a tremendous dinner!
And who can resist The Waldorf=Astoria Red Velvet Cake! Chocolate beet cake, layered with mascarpone cream cheese frosting-A Waldorf original-had us at hello.
Our highly esteemed panelist (If you like Whom You Know you need to thank her since she is the one that decided Peachy would be invited to move here from Boston ages ago) adds:
It is always a delight to be reminded of the many charms that New York City holds. The Bull and Bear at the Waldorf=Astoria is one of them, and George Pappas, its General Manager, aims to keep it that way. The restaurant maintains an ambiance consistent with its history as a meeting place for deal makers of times long gone. It is a masculine, clubby space which has been updated with soft leather seats, plush burgundy carpeting and other details which enhance the restaurant’s wood paneling and make it warm and welcoming to all. I, for one, felt like a little girl being seated for a special holiday feast . . . and the experience did not disappoint.
As soon as we were seated, Tanner, in charge of developing the Bar’s cocktail menu, offers us a specialty drink from the newly crafted, about-to-be-unveiled cocktail list: a lovely drink of aged rum infused with organic figs and ginger. Figs and ginger – I must remember that combination the next time I use figs in salads or dessert. Light, buttery biscuits arrive at the table in lieu of bread. For a starter, we order the Maine Peekytoe Crab Cake and the Oysters Waldorf.
The crab cake is entirely crab, fresh and sweet, accompanied by herb aioli. The Oysters are beautifully presented and gratineed – the spinach and touch of bacon are palpable, but the oysters themselves take center stage.
Jessica Fusco, the restaurant’s Food and Beverage Manager, suggests we pair the course with a Chablis, an excellent suggestion as the wine’s mineral complexity stands up to the richness of the crab and oysters. The chef surprised us with a course of sweet baby clams topped with tuna tartare and olive oil. The darlings were steamed in a fennel-garlic-chili broth. Select olive oils taste like fruit. This oil was all olive; it tasted like Kalamatas; surprising and wonderful. For those of us who like shellfish (and perhaps even for those who don’t think they like shellfish), this dish is the one to serve on special occasions. The popular PBS show “Spain, on the Road Again” spawned the book by Mario Batali and Gwyneth Paltrow called “Spain: A Culinary Road Trip”. The film/producer of that series (yes, an affair) once served me a fabulous dish made from a recipe in the book – chorizo and clams steamed in Albarino. The Waldorf’s meatless rendition reminded me of that dish, but better.
For a main course, we ordered the Surf and Turf (petit filet mignon and lobster) and the Dover Sole Meuniere, pictured above, alongside Truffle and Parmesan French Fries and Asparagus. Jessica once again recommended wines that complemented the entrees.
The Pinot Noir I opted for was well balanced and perfect with the Sole. (Ever since Sideways, whenever a Pinot is recommended, I am unable to resist.) The steakhouse is known for its aged steaks of certified Black Angus beef and rightfully so. However, it is worth noting that for non-meat eaters, the lobster and the sole were beautifully prepared. The Bull and Bear prepares seafood classically and hits the mark. Finally, the asparagus were bright and the parmesan-truffle fries decadent, as they very well should be.
For dessert we ordered the Waldorf=Astoria Red Velvet Cake (a Waldorf original) and B&B Bread Pudding with Maple Sugar Ice Cream. The velvet cake is presented beautifully, with a hypnotic beet chip and multiple layers alternating between chocolate beet cake and mascarpone cream cheese frosting. Tim Burton’s Alice would absolutely fall for it. The bread pudding is a playful take on French toast, although infinitely more substantial and silky.
We would be remiss if we did not acknowledge Julio and Adalberto, who took such good care of us, for their dedication to their métier and great sense of humor. Thank you, gentlemen.
Peachy Picks The Bull and Bear of The Waldorf=Astoria!
The Bull and Bear has earned our Highest Recommendation.
It has totally taken Manhattan.
Check out the ticker tape at the bottom left...
