Dine with Paul, Ari and Lady Liberty!
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Summer in the concrete jungle can become unbearable. That is, until you enter the complete serenity and beauty of Battery Gardens. You'll notice the high commitment to aesthetics that we surmise would even delight the likes of Mover and Shaker Geoffrey Bradfield (actually Geoffrey, you would love all the white inside...you and Mr. Willoughby need to travel down south as in the most southern tip of Manhattan.) You'll be dining with Lady Liberty...and we'll have what she's having.
When we were on a boat, we could see Paul and Ari waving at us.
They are right in the center of this picture if you look closely.
Battery Gardens is the only place we wrote on in the world in Peachy Dines Al Fresco for both 2013 and 2014.
Here is our 2013 review:
Admittedly, the day we picked in 2013 had sun that was more cooperative, but Battery Gardens is just as elegant, sophisticated, and delicious to us any day.
That's why it was also featured in the winter of 2013-the first time:
and the winter of 2014-the third time:
Not too many places have been written on four times in Peachy's Picks, and Battery Gardens is absolutely one of our most favorite places. Life just got even better there too because there is a Peachy cocktail!
This Peach Bellini was just smashing and better than the best Manhattan venues we've had them at prior to this sip!
Usually we keep panelists confidential, but all restaurant owners should know we have some pretty good secret weapons we've been told, (remember it's not who you know, it's Whom You Know.) This trip, Culinary King Rufino Lopez joined Peachy on the review and his analytics are incorporated below.
Rufino and Paul Nicaj, Owner of Battery Gardens
We were pleased to introduce them!
On a sunny day, seats are in high demand.
Use this picture to strategize which table you'd prefer.
Every last detail of beauty and culinary pursuit of Battery Gardens is well-thought out and carried through. If you are looking for a gorgeous experience, you will have it here.
Even the pizza is beautiful right down to the edible flowers on top. The top half was a delightfully crisp Margherita with Tomato, Fresh Mozzarella and Basil and the bottom half is a true highlight: Summer Allium and Bacon Pizza: Fire Roasted Leeks, Vidalia Onion, Argula, Mozzarella and Parmesan Shavings. Imagine biting into this as you watch the sunset and a schooner sail by, and you know you are at Battery Gardens. The flavor was superb and the crisp crust was perfection. Though this really is Uncle Paul's Pizza in a literal sense as we ate this pizza and Paul was right there, know that if you are near Grand Central you should check out the venue at The Roosevelt Hotel called Uncle Paul's Pizza. We think you may recognize the guy on the menu cover...not knowing the connection initially, Peachy was in for a surprise that day.
Please meet the chic Mushroom Carpaccio: Radish, Celery, Champignon, Regiano, Lemon and Unfiltered Cold Pressed Olive Oil - it was one of the appetizers we tried. Note how presentation is spot-on in every case here. The slivered slices were a total enchantment and the light flavor was divine.
You may not pass GO or collect $200 without trying the Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, which we simply adore. It is so fresh you would think Ari caught it right before our dinner. Accentuated with rich dollops of lemon aioli, crisp asparagus and mache salad, this is absolutely one of the best crab cakes we've had in recent memory. The chunkiness of the crab and the consistency of the cake is really unparalleled.
The appetizer hit parade of Battery Gardens continued with the Tuna Tartare! The tuna is exactly as it should be (the menu states it contains raw fish of course) and the Citrus Soy dressing, Cucumber Salad and Wasabi Tobiko bring out the flavor nicely.
Though we thought every appetizer was great, the one we found most convincing was the Gravlox:
This delicacy is in a class by itself! This was Rufino's first trip to Battery Gardens and he found this superb, and on a scale of 1 to 10 he said it was a 10. He particularly loves salmon and tries it all over the world at the best places, and this is one of the best he's had. It goes without saying it is also one of the best Peachy's had. Pumpernickle crisps, Creme Fraiche, Mache and Tomato Vinaigrette unite to form a world-class stack of poisson-plus-more to die for. Naturally, Peachy loves the pink and green color combination on top of it.
The wine list at Battery Gardens is laudable: we noted 14 great choices by the glass. Tarek designs the cocktail menu and does a fantastic job.
The merlot paired well with our pizza and appetizers and it had just the right amount of depth for summer.
As the sun sets and the moon lights up (or maybe just the electricity), you'll enjoy the ambiance of Battery Gardens which is beyond compare with its complete waterfront.
Executive Chef Ari Nieminen outdoes himself every time we visit, and we are constantly impressed with how his designs match the season so well and also our palate! Above please meet the Roasted Monk Fish which rests blissfully upon a glorious bed of steamed spinach, tomato confit, thai curry sauce and forbidden rice.
The Roasted Monk Fish is expertly prepared in brown butter and EVOO and slowly basted. The tomatoes are slowly dried in the oven at 150 degrees F for four hours. And you say you want to know what forbidden rice is? We did for certain. It's cooked down in white wine chablis with coconut milk, thai lemongrass and ginger. It has a wonderful buttery texture and you simply must try this dish.
Another main course we tried was the exquisite Pan Seared Quail. Rufino found this Quail phenomenal and he has a demonstrated affinity for birds. He said this had the quintessential quail taste that it should and just the right amount of gamey with a bit of liver/kidney kind of taste. He says you want it to be a little gamey and if it's not, you might as well have chicken! Morel Mushrooms, Sugar Snap Peas, Garlic Confit, Mint and Lemon Cous Cous joined this bird who gracefully flew off the plate into our happy mouths with the assistance of a fork. The Quail is carmelized with a little bit of pomegranate syrup and the earthiness of the mushroom made it a perfect pairing. Ari tells us that the produce is all local and know that if you want to talk Formula One with him, Ari is well-versed in that too. Tarek chose Pinot Noir to pair with our dinner.
There was another entree coming:
It was Peachy's favorite of the three!
Stop listening to Peachy and now listen to Ari:
The dining team could hardly wait to start eating after hearing Ari and know that this was in top condition in the video and has two bites out of it here (some people get too excited about food and need to learn patience...) The Halibut Steak, Steak of the Sea, was roasted to perfection in brown butter and we particularly loved the mashed potatoes highlighted by mustard.
Now it was time for dessert.
This is not ordinary Creme Brulee (Mover and Shaker Elizabeth Ann Kivlan-Stribling, take note!) - but since when is anything at Battery Gardens ordinary? It is EXTRAORDINARY Pistachio Creme Brulee, even better than the real thing.
Poached Pears dancing in red wine, doing a waltz with mascarpone we found to be the most divine! Simplicity at its best.
Lemon cake with berries is most refreshing in the summer! We also adored the whipped cream anglaise! Peachy Deegan loves berries.
Here please meet a chocolate trio classic: Mousse of Milk Chocolate, Dark Chocolate and White Chocolate. Chocoholics everywhere also adore chocolate nibs on top! There's a nice crunch to contrast with the soft mousse. Pasty phyllo dusted with confectionery sugar keeps it all together.
Paul Nicaj and Peachy Deegan
Ari Nieminen and Peachy Deegan
Peachy continues to Pick Battery Gardens and it earns our Highest Recommendation.
It is the best kept secret in Manhattan, rain or shine!
To find it, walk south on the island of Manhattan. If you aren't there yet, you haven't gone south enough...you will find it when you are nearly in the water!
When you get to the water, back up and have a Bellini and please think of us.