Peachy Picks Dolcino Our Coverage Sponsored by Fresh Origins
The superb Ramo Besi of Dolcino with dessert,
...and with the next generation to run the restaurant! His kids Arian, Emily and Linden!
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If you think we're getting tired of reviewing, eating and writing about Italian food, think again! We obviously love it when it's done well in an elegant setting, and occasionally punctuate this column with other cuisines. (we jest, kind of.) We like finding places that are under the radar that really wow us with zero ego and packed with talent, and Dolcino is this. We were greeted graciously and seated with some fantastic Grana cheese from Tuscany. Dolcino (also known as Ulcinj we believe) is the name of the town where Owner Ramo Besi was born in Montenegro (notice a pattern of people that do well in this column from Montenegro-Paul's Battery Gardens is a favorite) and Ramo has been serving up favorites at Dolcino since January 1, 2002. He came to America in 1988.
Peachy Deegan was delighted to sip this full-bodied red from Montenegro that Ramo suggested, and as an appetizer she chose the Grilled Asparagus topped with parmigiana cheese. Look at that color and nutrition:
Simplicity is beautiful to us, and when the asparagus is so fresh and crisp and accentuated with amazing cheese, the smile on Peachy's face is a sure result. And, she had no intention of being this healthy the entire meal, but was trying to create some balance to it.
In case you've read us before, we like to try Fettucine Alfredo everywhere, and our inaugural experience at Dolcino with this dish silenced Peachy. As her fork twirled around each incredible beloved Fettucine noodle, Peachy could concentrate on nothing else because the texture, flavor and freshness of this dish was so superb. We can't wait to eat it again.
The entree Peachy chose we'd highly recommend you try too: Veal Tartuffate. Blended mushrooms, truffle oil (we love those magic words that paired with anything, make us want to eat it!) and cream danced with the succulent Veal and if Bruno from Dancing with the Stars was with us (new season on tonight!) he'd be shouting and standing up on his chair with praise. That's not our style however, and Peachy simple cut the pieces and smiled. We like how fresh vegetables are served to the side, neatly.
You may not pass go and collect $200 without trying the dessert. All-American Peachy is usually on the lookout for apple pie or something similar, and she was super psyched to see Apple Strudel homemade as an option.
The presentation was notably gorgeous, and Dolcino may be one of the best places you've never been to. Ramo needs to get a website...tell him where you heard about this diamond in the rough. And, two thumbs up for Irish coffee! Coffee, Jameson and whipped cream were the perfect touch. Our first Dolcino experience was a great one...it came highly recommended to us.
Our esteemed panelist adds:
Sometimes it’s good to have a secret place. And then again, sometimes, it’s good to share it. Dolcino is like that: a steady, long-lasting secret place to those in the know. Make it one of your new favorites, and you’ll know why it’s a hidden gem: your friends wanted to keep it all for themselves. Come in, have some italian fare, spend some time, enjoy.
Appetizer choice for me were the meaty baked clams, cooked to tender perfection with an oreganato treatment. It’s fun to find the moist mouthful of clam in the center of it all, and the squeeze of lime juice in there gives a great finish. Our choice in pasta was the green pesto gnocchi, and what flavor! what wonderful gnocchi.
When you love italian food, and most of us do, it feels so good when you find that wonderful something in a new place. Don’t leave without sampling this dish. Either as an appetizer, a side, or main course, the gnocchi happened to be the favorite of the owner’s son, too.
Scampi, anyone? With a hint of lemon, the shrimp are mouthwatering, and the risotto adds a dash of color to the plating. Check the flavor with each mouthful, and savor each bite. The food at Dolcino is just what your Mother ordered, and it’s a great place to bring friends who scoff at restaurant food not living up to homemade.
Dolcino does live up to all that and beyond with its linen service (do they use Bergen Linens our favorite?), friendly waiters, and home-ey atmosphere, and the Pinot Grigio I sipped with my meal from Italy was a fantastic selection. Dolcino is not too clubby, not too rustic, but just right. The wines reach across an international selection, and they serve favorites for all palates. After dinner drinks, if not listed on the wine list, are happily recommended by your friendly bartender or waiter. This is a great place to have a sip of Grappa, with a coffee, by the way. And for dessert? Oh, my, the Tira-mi-Su.
Hands down the best I’ve had anywhere in town. Seriously. So light, it doesn’t seem like the sinful plate of fabulous-ness that it is. Indulge. Or have a bite of your friend's because you don’t want to miss this treat.
Come to Dolcino, make it soon. This Albanian/Italian fare will satisfy. Is it the fact that the owner buys all his own fresh ingredients? That he has his family on board eating in the dining room? That he’s friendly, and has your best interest at heart? It’s all of the above, and so good for you, too.
Peachy Picks Dolcino!
Dolcino is Highly Recommended by Whom You Know.
Dolcino is located at 517 Second Ave, Manhattan.
212 448 9505
