Peachy Picks Andanada 141 Our Coverage Sponsored by Fresh Origins
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Spanish cuisine is highly appealing to us, and perhaps that is because Peachy Deegan is Black Irish. Culinary King Rufino Lopez has set a high standard for other places with Spanish cuisine that we visit all over America, and the garlic shrimp at Solera remains our favorite item to eat in all of Manhattan regardless of the cuisine. That being said, we are happy to consider his competition; just think about the bevy of Italian places we have tried. Andanada 141 was first featured in Terrific Takeout:
We had a good experience, so we returned for a formal review. Owner Alvaro Reinoso, who is from Rioja, Spain, greeted us promptly upon our arrival, and presented the above appetizer: goat cheese and buttered squash. One aspect of fine dining that
Andanada 141 does very well is their wine.
Peachy always steers towards a robust red, and Alvaro got it right the first time, which is important. The Rosalida Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 set the tone for a lovely dinner and paired well with the culinary endeavors we tried at the start. It's from the Penedes region, close to Barcelona, and is a 85% Cabernet and 15% Merlot blend. We understand it is the most famous in Catalonia.
Under their "Modern" Tapas menu, Peachy chose the absolutely exquisite Tigres. These are mussel croquettes with saffron emulsion (we are huge saffron enthusiasts!) and chorzio. The Tigres were beautifully presented, and have no fear, if you don't speak Spanish either (Peachy took 6 years of French), the menu is in English.
Peachy next tried the Tebelos, Garnacha which was another convincing red from Spain. Their wine list is extremely extensive even by the glass which we find impressive.
Another appetizer Peachy chose was the Pate de Cabracho, which was an interesting duo. Looks like caviar, right? Not the kind from fish...(though we really love that!). On the right you see homemade eggplant caviar, and on the left is Scorpian fish flan topped with cauliflower foam. Innovative and delicious!
The one word we do know in Spanish is Prima because we think it means cousin...The Prima wine did not disappoint: made by a Tempranillo grape, this wine had a lovely full body and went well with our carnivorous entree:
Under the "From the Farm" section, Terrina de Cochinillo. With all apologies to Miss Piggy, this dish was a terrific terrine of sucking pig on a bed of panadera--style potatoes with a salad of romaine, pickled onion and cherry tomatoes. An appealing end to your night is found in the dessert menu...
Our esteemed panelist adds:
The best thing about Andanada is that they are a tapas bar. And a superlative restaurant for paella. And that the atmosphere is chic, modern AND old world all at once. And that the wine selection is comprised of many private label vintages. And that…..we, you must get the idea by now. Once seated at your table, the waiter brings out a little taste of something wonderful. Our night there it was a butternut squash and goat cheese soup, pure flavor and air. Air provided by a luscious foam made from goat cream, and flavor from the puree of butternut squash that marries so well with the goat cheese. Presentation is everything in Andanada. Plating is imaginative and appetizing, with a combination of artful arrangement and technique (as per the foam on the soup).
For an appetizer, we tried the patatas bravas, gently rolled in an aioli. Their tiny shapes are cut from yukon potatoes, with a light texture that the chef says comes from their treatment: shaped into tiny balls, and lightly sautéed in olive oil.
Then, the artichoke fried with melted cheese is placed before you as an artistic presentation. The delicate flavor of the manchego cheese with a touch of salt delights the palate, and the crispy edges of the artichoke add texture with the light crunch.
Through the opening courses, my wine of choice was a Tobelos Rioja, a fine wine to be sure, full bodied enough to accompany this hearty opening. Andanada is run by a young team interested in bringing Spanish gastronomy to the forefront of New York City, and with their professional approach to presentation and artful approach to flavor, they will be making many new fans. But let me not make you wait for the main course: on to the paella of choice. The rice is unlike you'll eat in other Spanish restaurants in town, as it is the correct rice for paella.
Called "bomba rice", it hails from Valencia, and has a different bite to it, a perfect foil with the mussels, fish stock, tiny clams and shrimp in my seafood paella. This is really enough for two, so take a friend. The warm atmosphere is just right for St. Valentine's Day, and the textures of the food are sensual.
The wine chosen to accompany the paella was a Tobelos Blanco (fermentado en barilla), from 2012. Inching towards the dessert menu, with a selection of Jerez (sherry) that defies. Try at least two of the sherries, as their heady density will awe. And this is the perfect place to do a sherry tasting. The varieties will amaze and delight you. Well positioned uptown on the west side, Andanada is the perfect spot to try some tapas, and most definitely come back for a paella.
Peachy Picks Andanada 141!
