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Wednesday, May 3, 2023

#TerrificTakeout #InauguralReview #Pepolino by #ExecutiveChef #Founder and #Owner #EnzoPezone and #PatrizioSiddu Since 1999 Cuisine of Tuscany, In Tribeca!

Linguine Nere Di Mare, Peachy's favorite!
Founder, Owner and Executive Chef Enzo Pezone!
Chocolate is always the right answer:
In retrospect, our final thought is: what took Peachy so long to discover Pepolino?
But let's start at the beginning.
Peachy discovering a new Italian place -new to her only that is-let us be clear: Pepolino started in 1999- is like Columbus discovering America for this column.  Our most favorite Italian place downtown most obviously is Il Cortile not only because of the meatballs but also because of Sal's sparkling personality and his NHL expertise.  But everyone knows there would have been no Il Cortile without Anna Esposito coming over from Italy generations ago...and fast forward to today: Enzo Pezone and Patrizio Siddu both came from Tuscany to start Pepolino in 1999.  They are BOTH Founders, Owners and Executive Chefs which you don't see too often in this triple combination, doubled.  This inaugural visit we worked exclusively with Enzo and perhaps we will meet Patrizio another time.  They are both from the capital city of Florence of Tuscany (the state).  Enzo came to New York in 1994.  Of course Florence is known for its architecture and history and its inspiration on Pepolino is clear.  We were also delighted to meet Angelo Nasti, manager, the one and only!
They are located at 281 West Broadway, and for everyone like Peachy who absolutely loved Barolo which is sadly long gone, this we believe is just down the street from where it was (and remember you could drink Peachy at Barolo.)  Pepolino has always been at this location and its name means fresh thyme.  The result is a great time!  It is the slang version of this noun in Italian and the formal is TIMO.    It seats 75 inside and 110 with outdoor seating added and everything we encountered was super fresh: everything is made on premises.
We were graciously greeted with Tomato Flan, which we had never had before.
Its extraordinary texture and flavor announced that this was not just another neighborhood Italian restaurant.  Super savory, the flan was a wonderous, enchanting beginning as was this extraordinary Vermentino which we happily sipped to start.  We love this wine for the warmer months.
Actually, in our humble opinion this restaurant reminds us of the movie Under the Tuscan Sun starring Connecticut sensation Pawel Szajda, but note the movie must have visited the restaurant first because it was after 1999!  We chose to sit on the second floor and loved it.  It's upscale yet comfortable and welcoming.
Panzanella arrived in style above: Romaine with Tomato, Cucumber, Basil, Onions. and Croton in a White Vinegar Dressing (with Olive Oil).  They put the dressing on the side in both salad cases per Ms. Pretty Picky's request, and actually the Beet Salad dressing of Balsamic and EVOO was a taste sensation with the beets below: Insalata Dei Medici.  This one was a party of beets, carrots, zucchini and potatoes with basil.  The produce was top-notch all around and we were pleased.
Under Antipasti (appetizers) we first tried the Polpo Alla Griglia: Mediterranean Seared Octopus with Oven Roasted Tomato over Fettuna (incredible toasted bread with garlic.  Peachy LOVES GARLIC.)  The octopus was seared perfection and it was not overdone or underdone but just right for Goldilocks Peachy.  Correct octopus is a great measure of a restaurant you are trying out.  If it is not right, leave!  Next, the Gamberi E Calamari Fritti was tantalizing and delicious and the texture sublime.  It is among the best calamari we have had in 2023 and of course you know at Peachy's towering height she is in good company with all shrimp: this was a terrific combination of calamari and shrimp.  We reveled in the simplicity of iceberg with fresh tomato and basil that it rested upon.
Let us reiterate: all pasta is made fresh on premises.
...and you can taste it!  It is piping hot just like you want it to be and know that pictures are always unedited.   You win like Enzo or we do not publish.  (P.S. Hi to Peachy's cousin named Enzo!)
Pictures do not lie: the truth is this homemade spinach and ricotta which waltzes in tomato and basil absolutely hits the spot!  You will love it!
However, what we loved most for this whole review was the Linguine Nere Di Mare.  Words do not do this dish justice and we cannot wait to see it again.  The homemade Black Linguine alone is of paramount quality but combined with the mixed seafood in a spicy tomato sauce, it is absolutely killer and to-die-for.  Note that at Pepolino, they demonstrated their taste levels which in this case is bringing the spiciness to the party on a plate without lighting Peachy's irish tastebuds on fire.  
Glamour shots:
What does Peachy like better than Italian red wine?  Not much except Alain Delon!  And for the last ten years or so you can see our in our glorious adventures with Gianfranco and Gruppo Italiano that Italian wine is practically deserving of its own column.  This Barbera D'Asti was a smashing companion to the Pollo Alla Buco: an elegant pan-seared chicken breast with bosc pears, the right amount of pecorino cheese in a red wine reduction all upon a bed of spectacularly sauteed spinach.
From every angle it's sublime and the flavor combination is perfection.
Finally, the freshness and the flavor of the Branzino Al Forno roasted just right is so flavorful and moist with the rosemary cooked in the oven, served with island vegetables style.  This is the best way to stay healthy right now and the delicate fish really does look this fabulous!  Truly exemplary!
Even if cheesecake is not something you normally gravitate to, we believe the lightness of the ricotta cheesecake here will impress you!  
There's no flour in the bittersweet chocolate cake with caramelized orange and that's exactly how you will feel at the end: bittersweet.  Happy because it was a superlative experience but sad it is over.  However, at 24 years and counting they are showing no signs of slowing down and they impressed us on our one and only visit.  We look forward to seeing what they do next!




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